BoF: The Business of Blogging with Tommy Ton

We love our Business of Fashion daily newsletter and felt so inspired by this Business of Blogging segment with Tommy Ton that we had to share it with you. Tommy discusses the inspirational journey which took him from his first fashion love (recording Fashion TV for his sister and being compelled by Tom Ford) to successfully carving a business out of blogging; sitting front row at Dolce & Gabbana, becoming BFF’s with the influential fashion pack and creating a ‘Tommy Ton / Jak & Jil‘ brand that makes his photos instantly recognisable….

The Business of Blogging

Tommy Ton

In our second installment of The Business of Blogging, we speak to the uber-talented Tommy Ton, founder of Jak & Jil and streetstyle photographer for Style.com and GQ.com

PARIS, France — “It was the summer of 1997 and I was 13 years old,” recalls Tommy Ton, now 27, describing the moment when a self-professed comic book nerd from the suburbs of Toronto first became interested in fashion. “My sister asked me to record Fashion Television and all of a sudden Tom Ford comes on and talks about women, and his idea of feminity. He was so eloquent in his choice of words. It was love at first sight.”

From that moment, Mr. Ton embarked on what has been described as a something of a fairytale, becoming the world’s most influential street style fashion photographer today. But achieving such success is rarely that simple — or easy.

More than just a skilled photographer with a good eye and encyclopedic knowledge of fashion, Ton has proven himself to be a savvy digital operator with a potent mixture of ambition, work ethic and strategic thinking that has enabled him to discover and hone in on his special talent. His humility throughout it all has endeared him not only to the stylish women he has made famous, but also to fellow fashion bloggers and his growing list of paying clients.
Yes, Tommy Ton is building a business, and he’s proud of it.

At first, Mr. Ton says he simply became infatuated with fashion. “I’d bike to the library, tear out ad campaigns, and make collages of Gucci and Versace,” he explains over dinner during Paris Fashion Week. At age 15, he interned with the Toronto designer Wayne Clark and then in the women’s accessories department of Holt Renfrew, Canada’s leading luxury department store.

From the beginning, Ton has been a fervent but charming networker, not afraid to approach and build relationships with the industry’s top players. “I made an effort so Barbara Atkin knew who I was,” he says, referring to the Holt Renfrew’s highly-respected fashion director. This ultimately landed him a gig in the store’s buying office, furthering his understanding of the fashion business, but still not quite sating his fashion appetite.

“I was there in the Summer of 2004 when web magazines first started popping up,” he says. Ton started taking classes in digital photography and met with friends who did graphic design, before deciding to start Jak & Jil, which was initially conceived in 2005 as a lifestyle website focused on the product and people in Toronto.
“Then my guardian angel came along,” says Ton, referring to Lynda Latner, proprietor of vintagecouture.com. “She hired me because she saw my site and thought I could help her.”

In 2007 when Latner offered to send Ton to Europe to attend the shows in London and Paris, he had his first opportunity to experiment with street photography during fashion week, a trend which was just beginning to take off due to the pioneering work of Scott Schuman and Garance Doré.

“My first show in Paris was Balmain. I had no idea what Balmain was at the time, or what it was going to be, but all the girls were in that that show, like Daria, Irina, and Anja, and they played the Cure on the soundtrack. As soon as that show was done, it was raining outside…and I was dancing in the rain. I just felt so uplifted. I could not believe what fashion could do for you,” recalls Ton nostalgically. “To have that moment in Paris, at your very first show…it was magical.”

Using his “Canadian connections,” Ton also managed to get into Chanel, YSL, Dries van Noten and Rick Owens that first season. But in all the excitement, Ton says he didn’t know who or what to shoot. “I just shot what I thought was visually amazing. I didn’t know who Emmanuelle Alt was, or Kate Lanphear or even Anna Dello Russo.”
Almost immediately after this first trip, the Canadian fashion media took note of Ton’s photography, beginning with Flare magazine editor Lisa Tant. “Because of that trip, I got a page in Flare which gave me a validated reason to go back,” he says.

By 2008 Ton was already seeking a way to stand out from the growing hordes of photographers outside the shows who were mostly aping Schuman’s photographic style. “I thought, ‘I’m so tired of taking head-to-toe shots. No one can touch Scott at those photos — he is the king.’ I wanted my photos to stand out. That’s when I stated taking the candid shots.”

Ton’s landscape-style images focused in on the little details that caught his well-trained fashion eye — a towering Louboutin stiletto here, a pop of colour there on his favourite subjects as they walked into the shows. He rarely asked them to pose. Ton was developing a photographic style that that has now become instantly recognisable as his own, capturing the raw energy and excitement of fashion week. Fellow blogger Tavi Gevinson later remarked, “You always know what a Tommy Ton photograph looks like.”

He re-purposed Jak and Jil into a blog, and started posting two or three of his new style of photographs each day. This caught the attention of influential bloggers like Susanna Lau of Style Bubble and Rumi Neely of Fashion Toast, who helped to spread the word.

Two and half months later, Ton received an email from the head of marketing at Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, asking him to shoot their Spring/Summer 2009 campaign.
“I said yes, but I didn’t even know what my worth was,” says Ton. “After talking to my business friends in the industry, I threw a figure at Lane Crawford. It was a bit too much, but we negotiated, and I was proud of myself because I was able to get an amount that I was satisfied with and which they were willing to pay.”

With his reputation spreading, Ton’s confidence began to grow. “During the Fall/Winter 2009 season, people started to know who I was. Scott [Schuman] actually knew my work. I was officially blogging and shooting for Lane Crawford at the same time. That was the season I knew what I was doing, and I knew what I wanted to shoot. It was the beginning of something.”

Another important shift came the following season in Milan, when Ton was seated in Dolce & Gabbana’s front row, alongside Doré, Schuman and Bryanboy, an image that was plastered in the fashion media around the world, signalling the arrival of fashion bloggers. “That was a huge moment. It was all due to Anna Dello Russo. She was the one who told Domenico and Stefano: ‘These are the people who are changing things.’”

From then on, the front row tickets came in fast and furious. Everyone wanted Ton to shoot at their shows, knowing his images would be seen by thousands of fashion enthusiasts and influencers around the world. The New York Times, The Boston Globe, and others came calling. “They were emailing to buy photos,” he says.
Ton went from ultimate fashion outsider to insider almost overnight.

But the real turning point came a few weeks earlier when Style.com’s editor-in-chief Dirk Standen asked Ton to step into the formidable shoes of Scott Schuman, whose own photography career had gone stratospheric, in no small part due to the platform given to him by Style.com. Schuman had decided to leave Style.com to focus on other projects, and Ton now had the most high-profile streetstyle photography gig in the business.

“Being associated with Style.com is a huge deal for me. It’s what everyone looks at every day. People go to Style.com like you brush your teeth in the morning. It’s something you just do,” enthuses Ton.

By now, the time had come for Ton to seek professional representation. An introduction to elite agency The Collective Shift—which also represents top fashion photographers Inez and Vinoodh and super-stylist Melanie Ward—instantly felt like the right fit. Ton also signed on Trunk Archive to act as his image licensing agency, removing the burden of negotiating image rights and contracts on his own and dramatically increasing what he could earn from selling his images to the likes of American Vogue, Elle UK, and Vogue Nippon.

“Before, I was underselling myself, getting about $50-100 per image.” Today, Ton reports that he can earn from as little as $100 up to $2000. “The the thing I’ve learned is that you have to really consider whether it’s a one page image or a ½ page image or ¼ page image. It’s a really big deal when it’s one image over two pages in Grazia for example, whereas if it’s ⅛ of a page in Vogue, it is much less. I’m lucky to have Trunk Archive to deal with all that now.”

But image licensing only makes up about 30 percent of the revenue he earns. The remaining 70 percent comes from a variety of projects, including his gigs for Style.com, GQ.com, but also for retailers and brands such as Topshop, Selfridges, Sergio Rossi and Saks 5th Avenue.

Ton says he has made an intentional decision not to have advertising on his site. “It’s an association with your brand. I didn’t want my blog to be associated with any type of branding,” he explains.

But would he ever take pay for editorial placement on Jak & Jil itself? “Yes,” he says matter-of-factly. “But that requires a discussion between my agent, my client and me. The thing about the development of the Tommy Ton brand and the Jak & Jil brand is that everything is strategically selected and carefully monitored. We have to see potential growth in it, and understand what’s in it for us.”

When pressed on the criteria he uses for this kind of paid content, so as not to alienate his audience, he pauses to think. “It’s definitely gut instinct. It just has to be of the moment and relevant for the time.” His readers shouldn’t be able to tell the difference, he says, because the images he creates would be the kind he would post anyway. The standards are the same, and the images are just as powerful.

All the same, Tommy Ton also realizes this is his moment and it may not last forever. “I don’t even know if I will be able to earn the money I do now in a few years. I don’t know if I will be relevant or not. I am just lucky that people want to associate with me and their brand right now.”

And what about all that competition from the hundreds of streetstyle bloggers outside the shows? “You always have to stay on top of your game, and the only way to do that now is to have exclusive content,” he asserts. Recently, Ton has been invited to shoot behind-the-scenes at the Proenza Schouler studio and the Victoria’s Secret fashion show.

“I’m not making any money from it, but it gives me access no one else would have. I take a lot of pride in that. I am so, so happy I am invited to do these things,” he says, recalling that 13 year old kid watching Tom Ford on TV back in Toronto. “In some ways I still feel like an outsider, even though I am acknowledged by these designers. I am still in awe of what is going on.”

By Imran Amed is founder and editor of The Business of Fashion

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Music Monday!

Song of the Week: Daniel by Bat for Lashes

Each Monday we will feature our ‘Song of the Week’ from the our in-store Spring/Summer 2011 playlist at Symphony, The Dubai Mall

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Lady into Cat: the short film by Willow for Spring/Summer 2011

Imagine the luxury of being able to stand still. To immerse yourself in the moment: to truly hear, smell, taste and see the world around you. To pause like a wild cat, be a majestic puma for longer than a moment, the mountain lion with senses so sharp she is the deadliest big cat in the world. Imagine feeling the earth beneath your feet, a breeze running across your skin, never again looking beyond the here and the now…

This season WILLOW has created a short film entitled Lady into Cat for the launch of its S/S 2011 collection. The inspirational work is about cherishing and respecting wild animals and the power of discovering the animal within us all.

“As we are not taking the collection to runway, due to my pregnancy and my inability to fly to New York, the film is an artistic expression highlighting the inspiration behind the new collection,” says Kit Willow. “It’s an alternative way to launch the collection, but it was also a wonderful opportunity to create an inspiring moving image.”

Capturing the raw Australian landscape was paramount and highly significant for WILLOW’s first moving image. Lady into Cat is directed by international fashion photographer Sharif Hamza who created Dior Homme’s film The White Room. Hamza’s work has been published in French and Russian Vogue, Dazed & Confused and LOVE.

Lady into Cat was styled Melanie Huyhn, of French Vogue, and stars Australian model Emma Balfour.

“Emma embraced the concept and, thankfully, the wild puma. Magically she was able to make a very special connection with this beautiful creature,” says Willow.

The Willow Spring/Summer 2011 Collection is available at Symphony, Ground Floor Fashion Avenue, The Dubai Mall, T: 04 330 8050 now

♥

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RIP Dame Elizabeth Rosemond Taylor, DBE (27 February 1932 – 23 March 2011)

“Give. Remember always to give. That is the thing that will make you grow.” Elizabeth Taylor
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The UAE Downs Syndrome Association x Symphony

Symphony would like to thank everyone for helping us to raise a total of 15,000dhs for The UAE Downs Syndrome Association in support of World Downs Syndrome Day…

We would like to thank each and every one of you from the bottom of our hearts. Whether you came and shopped for a cause, donated to the FishFayce photo booth or supported through spreading the word… Every little helps and we are eternally grateful for your support. We love our Symphony family!

The donation will go towards the speech therapy and occupational therapy which The UAE Downs Syndrome Association provides to the children so that they may go about their daily lives with greater ease. One of the characteristics of a person with Downs Syndrome is an enlarged tongue and the association intervene early to teach and train those little children to speak more clearly and this enables them to be better understood by those they communicate with which improves their quality of life. An essential service, as I am sure you will agree!

A special thank you to Sonia Al Hashimi and Melanie Rudd from The UAE Downs Syndrome Association for allowing us to be a part of such a great cause. We would also like to thank Sweet Stuff Dubai and The English Tea Party for the generous contributions of cupcakes and vintage crockery, FishFayce for their donation incentive, Social House, Pink Pepper Photography and all of our event partners for their help.

To learn more about this fantastic cause and charity please visit: http://www.uaedsa.ae

♥

20th March 2011: An Event to Remember!

SYMPHONY LAUNCHES THE NEW SPRING/SUMMER 2011 SEASON WITH AN EVENT WHICH MARRIES ART, PHILANTHROPY AND FASHION

THE NEW WINDOWS FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2011 AT SYMPHONY, THE DUBAI MALL

Yesterday at 7pm sharp, Symphony, The Dubai Mall revealed the new VM creative campaign in collaboration with local Emirati artist, Moaza Matar. The installation, which features two spectacular windows and “pop up” sketches throughout the store, was created to compliment the new Spring/Summer 2011 creative campaign, forming a multimedia in-store installation – The Garden of Symphony: Spring/Summer 2011.

THE GARDEN OF SYMPHONY: SPRING/SUMMER 2011

SYNOPSIS The Garden of Symphony: Spring/Summer 2011 invites you to experience Symphony’s new creative campaign shoot in a completely unique way. Two hero shots from the new campaign featuring ready-to-wear from Luisa Beccaria and Richard Nicoll are deconstructed and presented through three dimensional paintings consisting of three levels contrasting with a monochromic background.

Using canvas, paper laser-cut 3D butterflies, flowers and the actual dresses; artist Moaza Matar has transformed our store windows into a symphony of nature and art – the dresses feel as if they have been brought to life. They are asking you to wear them.

CONCEPT Springtime serves as the magnificent evolution from winter to summer; symbolising rebirth, renewal and regrowth. All of nature dances in the sun’s tenderness. As the length of daylight rapidly increases, as do our spirits; anything seems possible – a sense of warmth and opportunity is tapping at the door.

In the same way that spring represents new life and chance; as does the butterfly – just when the caterpillar though its world was over it was reborn and became a beautiful butterfly. Symphony has been transformed into a majestic garden of finery for all to enjoy… let the sun shine!

The Luisa Beccaria Window at Symphony, The Dubai Mall

The Richard Nicoll Window at Symphony, The Dubai Mall

Philanthropy is extremely important to the Symphony concept, as such, we wanted to support World Downs Syndrome Day (March 18th 2011) and the activities such as The Downs Syndrome Walkathon which took place at The Dubai Mall by donating 5% of all sales made at Symphony on the 20th and 21st of March 2011 to The UAE Downs Syndrome Association. The total amount raised will be communicated in the next few days.

The FishFayce x Symphony x The UAE Downs Syndrome Association Photo Booth which raised a total of 1310dhs through generous donations from our guests ♥.

FishFayce Dubai set up a photo booth at the event and invited guests to take pictures and donate to the worthwhile cause, this incentive raised 1310dhs which will be donated to The UAE Downs Syndrome Association in addition to the 5% of sales at Symphony on the 20th and 21st of March.

Organic fresh juices and soft drinks were provided by Social House and guests treated themselves to Sweet Stuff Dubai’s irresistible cupcakes and cakepops which featured The UAE Downs Syndrome Association logo and were displayed on quaint vintage crockery from The English Tea Party.

The UAE Downs Syndrome Day cupcakes which were generously donated by Sweet Stuff Dubai were presented on beautiful vintage crockery from The English Tea Party, who also generously donated their services for the event

The Symphony emblem is transformed into a floral centrepiece. Spring has officially sprung at Symphony ♥

The hero images from the new Symphony Creative Campaign for Spring/Summer 2011 featuring Richard Nicoll and Luisa Beccaria have been printed on huge hanging canvas’s inside the store and present the “full picture” which artist Moaza Matar used as a starting off point when she “deconstructed” the images for the window installations.

In addition to launching the new season, VM campaign and creative campaign for Spring/Summer 2011 with a special charity event in support of World Downs Syndrome Day and The UAE Downs Syndrome Association, Symphony also revealed its new in-store magazine, The Symphony Edit: Spring/Summer 2011 which features exclusive designer interviews, inspirations behind the latest collections and all of the hottest trends for the new season. The complimentary magazine is available in-store at Symphony, The Dubai Mall now.

In-store TODAY the latest issue of the NEW Symphony Edit: Spring/Summer 2011 Magazine. Featuring exclusive designer interviews, all of the hottest trends for the new season and lots of fun things for you to do and read. Pick up your complimentary copy in-store at Symphony, The Dubai Mall TODAY!

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The NEW issue of The Symphony Edit: Spring/Summer 2011 is OUT TODAY!

In-store TODAY the latest issue of the NEW Symphony Edit: Spring/Summer 2011 Magazine. Featuring exclusive designer interviews, all of the hottest trends for the new season and lots of fun things for you to do and read. Pick up your complimentary copy in-store at Symphony, The Dubai Mall TODAY!

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The Garden of Symphony: Spring/Summer 2011 exclusively in Grazia Middle East

Our friends at Grazia Middle East revealed the final 3 creative campaign images from The Garden of Symphony: Spring/Summer 2011 before anyone else on Wednesday the 16th of March 2011…

The NEW Symphony Creative Campaign for SS11 featured in Grazia Middle East

The complete collection of images from The Garden of Symphony: Spring/Summer 2011, Symphony, The Dubai Mall’s NEW Creative Campaign
Which one is your favourite? Click a thumbnail to enlarge…

Badgley Mischka at Symphony

Belle Sauvage at Symphony

Calla at Symphony

Chris Benz at Symphony

James Jeans & Chris Benz at Symphony

Derek Lam at Symphony

Georges Hobeika at Symphony

Jason Wu at Symphony

Luisa Beccaria at Symphony

Prabal Gurung at Symphony

Richard Nicoll & FINSK for Symphony at Symphony

The Garden of Symphony: Spring/Summer 2011

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COME SHOP FOR A CAUSE: Don’t forget that 5% of ALL SALES at Symphony, The Dubai Mall TODAY will be donated to The UAE Downs Syndrome Association in support of World Down Syndrome Day.

To RSVP for our special event today please go to the Facebook event page

Symphony
Ground Floor, Fashion Avenue<
The Dubai Mall
T: 04 330 8050

Event Reminder!

We will be launching the new Spring/Summer 2011 season this coming Sunday the 20th of March with a magnificent new art installation by local Emirati artist, Moaza Matar.

The installation entitled, ‘The Garden of Symphony: Spring/Summer 2011‘ will be revealed for the first time at 7pm sharp on Sunday. The event is in support of World Down Syndrome Day and 5% of all sales at Symphony on the 20th of March will be donated to The UAE Down Syndrome Association.
For more info and to RSVP click here. Xx

Must Have!

Christian Siriano Spring/Summer 2011
We are head-over-heels in love with this jaw-dropping, dreamy gown which was recently worn by Nicki Minaj on Saturday Night Live.

Tulle Strapless Ruffle Gown, 31,625 Dhs at Symphony

The gown is exclusive to Symphony in Dubai and there is only one piece available…
Symphony
Ground Floor, Fashion Avenue
The Dubai Mall
T: 04 330 8050
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